Ethan Koh designs for the woman who has it all

a designer, I would be a pâtissier. After all, luxury is about arousing desire, like food." While this may sound odd coming from Ethan Koh, a handbag couturier, it makes sense when you see his delectable creations.

Elegant minaudieres are crafted from the finest crocodile and alligator skins, then dyed in eye-watering shades of shocking yellow, pastel pink, lollipop red, green calamansi and violet. Many are decorated with whimsical animal motifs carved out of precious stones, or glitter with crystal-studded clasps.

But this eye candy is strictly for an exclusive clientele, with prices ranging from £2,500 (HK$31,800) to £25,000 for bespoke handbags.

"Ethan K bags aren't just for anybody - I am not designing for the average luxury customer. This is for someone who has everything and is bored with brands and logos," says the 27-year-old designer, who counts Saudi royalty among his customers.

"Our clients don't carry a bag from us because they want their friends to recognise it. Our clients have already arrived - they don't need their handbag to show the world that they have done well."

Although he's young, Koh knows luxury well. As a fourth-generation member of the family that owns Heng Long International, one of the world's top tanneries, he watched his father and uncle create skins for top luxury brands, including Hermès and Louis Vuitton - LVMH would later buy a stake in the business - at their factory in Singapore.

"My forefathers really struggled hard to create their own business and came to Singapore from China in the early 1900s," Koh says. "My great-grandfather was very enterprising, and instead of being in the sugar trade like everyone else, he decided to learn the art of tanning skins from the British.

"He started selling the skins to watch-strap makers, and the business grew from there. He passed down the skills to my grandfather and then my father. I grew up spending most of my time in the factory, which was literally in our backyard."

By the time he was 13, Koh had made his first bag. He later worked with his father as part of the exotic-leather selection team for Hermès and Prada before securing internships at Louis Vuitton and then Hermès in Paris, which brought out his artistic streak. Stints at the London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martin's rounded off his fashion education, and in 2011 he launched his Ethan K brand from London.

From the outset, Koh knew he wanted to add his own twist to the somewhat staid world of accessories made from exotic skins.

"Today's luxury brands are so caught up in social media and celebrity that they have forgotten about the craft. I want to use my work as a medium to communicate my heritage and my story, whether it's my life in Asia or London, or about things I love like British architecture. Luxury today is more about oneself than social gratification," he says.

"I am also the crazy one in the family, so I really wanted to innovate while still respecting the skins. I didn't want to make boring, structured bags with a simple lock."

With the help of his brother Albert - who works as a technician at Heng Long - and a group of skilled artisans in Tuscany, Koh developed a range of exclusive finishes such as the bombe shine and a marble effect.

Then came the vibrant colours: skins are hand-dyed for up to eight hours, resulting in an exotic palette inspired by Koh's Asian heritage, be it tropical fruits such as durian or dragonfruit, or heady spices like tumeric.

One of his latest designs, the Alla, features an ombre technique that ranges from dark to light orange to mimic the sunset.

While the skins take pride of place in all of Koh's handbags - he uses only the centre part of the belly for the smoothest finish, and personally approves every skin used - functionality is also emphasised. Each piece is superlightweight thanks to a hand-staking technique that reduces the thickness of the skin while softening it. "Maybe it's my Asian heritage, but it's important that the bags are also useful," he says. "We are trying to craft articles of luxury while still being utilitarian. Many of my designs are inspired by real women who are successful in the business world, and they want special details. If you look at a designer like Yves Saint Laurent, he was successful because he was creating clothes that were relevant to the women of his time. Similarly, I see my bags as something that's important to a woman's identity today."

But he also designs ready-to-wear collections, the latest of which is a range of minaudieres called The Wizard of the Secret Garden. The line explores Koh's favourite themes, animals and wildlife, many of which are inspired by his walks through Hyde Park or fairy tales by Hans Christian Andersen. The pieces feature clasps shaped like animals decorated with semi-precious stones chosen for their healing properties, be it onyx for strength or tiger's eye for luck.

The ready-to-wear collections are available at select retailers, including Harrods, where Ethan K is among the three best-selling accessory brands. While going into retail isn't top of his priorities, Koh is launching in the United States next. He also has his sights set on Asia, although finding the right partner is tough. "Sometimes when we approach retailers they aren't sure, because the words 'crocodile skin' have been overused in the industry. It's about educating them about what it really represents and what we represent. I want them to understand how stories and heritage are important," he says. "Luxury is like a commodity, but we've lost the excitement. I hope to bring that back."

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This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Skin deep

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